Venice

We arrived in Venice and now I understand the meaning of COLD. There was a light snow and it was very damp and freezing in comparison to Spain. We caught a water ferry at the airport for the Accademia area. Had to change ferries at San Marco for the Accadamia wharf then a short walk with some steps over a small bridge to our hotel. I soon realise that this is the way of venice - a short walk with some steps over a small bridge. The hotel is just so warm and comfortable. I have a lovely room overlooking the garden and the canal. The hotel is called Pensione Accademia, "villa Maravege". We are on the first floor. This floor has a large lounge area for residents to use or they can sit at the fire on the ground floor and have complimentary tea and biscuits at around 5pm. http://www.pensioneaccademia.it/

The view from my bedroom window - the entry to the canal for the gondola is through gate on back right of picture

The courtyard entrance to the Hotel



Front facade of hotel. My room is the first floor second window on right. B's is just out of the picture, same floor but on the left.




View of the courtyard as you enter from the canal.




Outdoor eating area but way too cold when we were there




The courtyard entrance - small canal on left and enters the Grand Canal about 200 metres on the left




The Grand Canal from our courtyard



Entry to Venice from the airport was nothing as I expected but then I really had no clear idea what to expect. The ferry ride was slow and bumpy. The day was very grey and overcast. I was not expecting such a large expanse of water between the airport and the city itself.

The history of the cities development is also fascinating. As usual after a short opportunity to settle in we went for a walk. This was lovely, beautiful, painful, cold and a little scary all at the same time. Chilling mist, lights, narrow walkways, some shops open, others closed then varying size squares and steps and bridges. The B's took me on a very long walk (actually I put this down to BJK) that went from Accademia, across to San Marco square and then across the Railto Bridge and back to our accommodation. I was stuffed, again.

Fortunately we had arranged for dinner at a little restaurant just across the canal, which meant another bridge crossing, but easy walking distance and within sight if the hotel. That was reassuring. Excellent meal but I had started to learn that an entree and main can be too much.




Me outside my favourite restaurant

Consequently I did not have the entree but the B's did. The name of this Restaurant is Taverna San Trovaso web . It was very popular and full on arrival. We had a booking so no worries. There was also an upstairs area and all we could see were the stairs but I would guess that about 50 people came down stairs during out time here.

Back to the menu. Both B's had been there before. I had a lasagne for my main. BJK had an entree pasta (spaghetti) dish with seafood - huge serve followed by a main of grilled sea bass. I observed that BJK seems very fond of sea bass.

BJL chose an entree of Fish soup followed by Ossa Bucca. Huge serves again. Of course all this was supported by wine, water and coffee at the end. At the table we had a range of breads and I particularly liked the Crostino al Sesamo. Slept like a log.

On Friday 7th I had a walking tour of the city. This really centred around San Marco, the Cathedral, the Palace and other amazing buildings with amazing art work including the "Paradise" in the Hall of the Great Council; the central ceiling in the Hall of the Senate and the Giants' staircase with the two marble sculptures at the landing. The history, the detail, the beauty were outstanding. It seems to me each church, museum or every historic location I have visited on this trip have been outstanding in its own right. It is so humbling to think of Australia's short history in light of the history, battles and achievements over centuries of these cities and countries. Their faith and belief in God is strong and provides direction and purpose.

Back to the tour - there were four of us on the tour with our guide Raphael. Darcy and Heather are friends from the USA and Laura is from Hornsby in NSW.

During the tour there was much we could not photograph inside the buildings, but again I purchased a book on Venice which will provide excellent background. The mosaics were the stand out feature in many of these buildings. Especially the one at St Marks. The size and intricacy of the work was really stunning. The use of colour, particularly blue and gold really highlighted the artistic skills of the artists. The many paintings and frescos throughout the buildings need to be seen to be believed. Again I am left in awe of the grandeur, skill and imagination to conceive of such beautiful items at a time centuries ago when technology was not available. Clearly artists were a poor but respected group and as they became noted by royalty and the nobility their scope of work and the ability to represent history through their work was allowed to grow. BJL has pointed out to me that much of the art was the means of communicating with the population as the written word was limited and the peasants really had no other means of understanding the stories of the past without art. That makes sense.

After the tour I dropped into a cafe in the San Marco area. This waiter in a dinner suit showed me to a table - all I wanted was a drink but the place was lovely. The name of the cafe is Caffe Lavena S R L. A hot chocolate and a toasted cheese and ham sandwich was €18.40.




Chandalier in a small cafe I visited at San Marco. Note the upper level of the restaurant - very narrow

 B's cancelled lunch as they were delayed at the station booking tickets for Trento. They suggested I meet them at hotel. Well that was going to be a test as I had not walked alone anywhere yet. I got it right. Did some more shopping on the way and the B's caught up with me just after the Accademia bridge.



Accademia Bridge across Grand Canal. This is a wooden bridge

Instead of going directly to the hotel, we did a short detour to a bar that BJK had seen on his early morning walk. It was excellent. The bar was called Vino al Bottigano and we had a fresh roll each and wine standing at the counter. It was crowded and fresh food was coming from the kitchen constantly - small tapas like foods, fresh and lovely. I know this as the B's went for their afternoon exploration and dropped in again on their way back to the hotel. This time they had some the Tapas with red wine.




Our local bar with tapas - Brian checking who else is coming

 My afternoon was a deep hot bath which was so warming and some light washing. The intention was to write the blog but after wine and a hot bath I slept. This was really because the IPad would not connect and I was disinclined to dress and go downstairs.

Dinner was arranged at the Antica Locanda, Montin. Include Web Not crowded but again excellent food. We shared an anti pasta of mixed seafood. This comprised of scallops, fish, baby octopi, bacalava, sardines, shrimp, pommigrannit seeds, rocket, baby tomato, onion and parsley. Gone before we knew it. Fresh and lovely.

To assist us with digest this meal we had 2 bottles of Valpolicella - this was a lovely red. Thank heavens no one had to drive. For my main I had spaghetti Ragu. Beautiful, BJK had grilled sea bass with artichokes and BJL ordered Scaloppini with lemon. We shared spinach and eggplant for vegetables.

This was rounded off with a homemade Tiramosu for BJL and I whilst BJK had gelato all a viniglia. All this followed by Grappa. I have the menu which has a picture of the back garden area which is used in the warmer weather. BJK said the waiter was taken with me, apparently he said this whilst pouring the wine. I think it was a comment about my personality but the B's would not let it go. They are encouraging me to go back whist they are in Trento. I am likely to hear much embellishment of this tale over time. We have named him Alfredo and he said 'molta simpatica'.

Today is the Saturday 8th and the B's leave at 9 for Trento. We are breakfasting in the hotel at 8am - an hour and a half away. I will miss them. They are excellent travelling companions, thoughtful, knowledgeable, and always helpful. I love them both.




Saying farewell to the B's as they leave for Trento

I have failed to update you on the change in our plans. After much discussion the B’s have suggested we remain two extra days in Venice rather than move onto Bologna. They make the necessary inquiries and this is all arranged before we arrive in Venice. The idea is that this will minimise the need to move again and give them 4 days in Venice, me 6 days and we will be less pressured by a short stay in another city. As I know nothing about anything, I agree.