Madrid - including Toledo and Cordoba

Wednesday, 29th December 2010 we went to Toledo. Toledo used to be the countries capital and is one of the oldest cities in Europe. This is a day tour. The tour starts with a visit to a look-out to view the city from a nearby hill. It provides a great perspective to the old and new parts of the city. Motor vehicles cannot enter the old part of the city. To get there we take an escalator (or several) near where the bus drops us, to the old city which is at the top of a hill, and start walking. Within the old city limits we visit St Tome Church, Santa Maria la Blanca Synagogue, San Juan de los Reyes Church, Museo Victorio Macho and the Cathedral. Our Guide was very good providing information to a bus of people in about 4 or 5 languages.

This is a view of Toledo from the lookout. Note the river which provided a high degree of protection to the city during times of war

Another perspective of the city from the lookout

BJL from the lookout of Toledo

The B's with Toledo in the background

The old city was incredible and we also had the opportunity to do some shopping whilst we were there. The Cathedral was extraordinary. The history of Spain and the various cities is very exciting. The architecture and artistry is outstanding. I bought a book on Toledo but only after the B's gave me the money as the woman had no change. I could not believe her? Anyway I bought the book because my camera would not do the sights justice. This now joins by book about the Palace and Madrid.

These two shots show the wall around Toledo

The Alcazar of Toledo was begun in 1226 - Alcazar means Fortress

A view of the outside facade of the Cathedral

The Cathedrals main entrance



The Alcazar of Toledo was first used as a Roman palace in the 3rd century, but it was later strengthened by Alfonzo VI, and finished by Alfonzo X. The Alcazar's most famous siege occurred during the Spanish Civil War when the Nationalists held the Alcazar against the Republicans.

The Alcazar of Toledo is situated in Toledo's highest point, making it a perfect place to resist. The Alcazar's history is long and bloody. It changed hands several times, treason, murder and sieges occurred and it all culminated with its last siege in 1936. Despite the Republican's artillery, the Nationalists were able to hold their ground for two months.

The Alcazar of Toledo has been repaired since the Civil War and it's now a museum. One finds incredible that the Alcazar was nearly in ruins seventy years ago.

The Cathedral has many treasures but perhaps the most significant are The Processional Monstrance made by Enrique de Arfe between 1517 and 1524. I do not have a picture of this here but the monstrance is made of sold silver, gold and precious gems and consists of 5600 pieces. It is extraordinary.

Another of the significant pieces in the Cathedral (and not shown here) is the White Virgin, which was sculptured in alabaster and is a magnificent Gothic carving of French origin dating back to the 14th century. What is so beautiful about this work is that it depicts a happy image of motherhood and is located over the prime alter in the Cathedral Choir.

The following 6 photos are views of the cloister, and other sections of the facade of the San Juan de Los Reyes presbytery.

The Roman Bridge into Toledo

A view of the rock area from the river aimed to protect Toledo from attack

Another two views of the Tagus river

Inside the Synagogue at Toledo - Santa Maria La Blanca

After the walking tour we returned to the bus and had lunch at a local restaurant which clearly has a good relationship with the tour groups. The meal was good and the view was looking back over the valley to the city.

That evening, after returning at about 6pm we went out to Dinner at La Chinitas www.chinitas.com/ a restaurant that also has Flemenco Dancing. The evening was pleasant and the dancers entertaining, their skills and stamina with the dance were enviable. To accompany the dancing we had a selection of antipasti followed by paella as the main course with a jug of sangria. This was my first Paella in Spain and it was very good. This will be the measure for all other such dishes in the future.

By now our sleep patterns are settling. BJK is no longer waking at 1:30am. I have probably had very little jet lag but then I tend to sleep pretty well and I also take rests through the day so perhaps I have not noticed. BJL has a system of short-term medication organised to get back into an appropriate sleep pattern. I think their routine of up and around also has a lot to do with it. They are on the go all the time and consequently by evening we are all exhausted.

I have also now observed first hand that BJK gets up early every morning – about 6am – and goes for a run. Yes, RUN. Whilst I have not actually seen that I have witnessed the early preparation of getting ready and out and his descriptions, like all top athletes, of how lovely the morning is etc etc etc.

Big day today, Thursday 30^th December 2010, we are going to the PRADO Art Gallery. BJL has managed to get us tickets so we are not in a mile long queue. It needs to be said that apart from getting us in quickly and avoiding queues, BJL oratory about the art we see, the history behind it and the building itself makes the experience very special. The history is fascinating with the collection having been supported strongly by Royalty, and Royalties contribution was discerning and knowledgeable over the centuries. The collection started in 1445 through to the present day – that is just over 600 years. Another factor making the PRADO exceptional is that every room is available every day to the public with the best works being displayed. Among these are works by Goya, El Greco and other great Flemish and Venetian masters. Some of the paintings I recall include The Second May 1808; The Third of May 1808. The paintings depict the uprising in Madrid at the Calle de Alcala near Puerto del Sol.   The second of the paintings is the one I liked the most and depicts the Spanish resistance against Napoleon’s armies during the occupation of 1808.

El Greco is perhaps best known for the work on the Cathedral in Toledo which was commissioned in 1577. El Greco worked to achieve royal patronage but this eluded him despite work commissioned by Philip II. This work was rejected by Philip and consequently royal patronage was lost.

The Annunciation painted in 1400’s by Fra Angelico was perhaps the painting I liked the most in the overall collection at PRADO. The Table-top with the Seven Deadly Sins by Hieronymus Bosch is also amazingly beautiful. The other painting I particularly remember is The Maids of Honour by Diego Valasquez.

Listening to Brian provide the history and significance of these paintings adds to my sense of value and appreciation of the works.

I left about lunchtime and the B’s continued for the rest of the afternoon. As my feet and legs were aching I had decided to purchase some new shoes and ignore the orthotics (not sure if that is a good or bad idea in hindsight). This will likely happen tomorrow but for now I have found the Book Shop with English books about Madrid. Managed to get some lovely purchases that show the architecture and beauty of the city and its art to perfection. The plan is to mail these home as they definitely will not fit in my suitcase.

Whilst back at the apartment I heard some noise outside and on checking I find 20 to 30 people had started dancing to the music - many were pedestrians on their way up or down the road. This together with the various buskers and other street artists lends a very attractive atmosphere to the street.




Street Buskers in Madrid

 

Impromtu Street daning on Calle Arenal - note the tiles on the street

A woman who sat outside the church begging. On the occassion a young man has stopped to speak with her and offer her a smoke, I think.




One of the many buskers that lined Calle Arenal and other streets around Madrid.



After the PRADO and some shopping we went to a Moroccan Restaurant that the B’s had seen recommended in the New York Times. The restaurant is named ARABIA and I do not have a website address but a search of the web will lead to a number of reviews.

We were early at 9pm but by the time we left it was packed. Most of the restaurants seem to hold many more people than you originally think and this was no exception. The restaurants / cafes generally appear small from the front entry but on entering and orientating yourself it is often surprising just how large the facilities are. This restaurant was no exception with areas around corners and up stairs.

The food was lovely - we had 3 entrees and 3 meals that we shared. The salad was very nice and crunchy. Not sure what added the crunch but I kept going back for more. The taste was very evasive so I wanted more to try and figure it out. I did not figure it out. Eggplant and farfel’s was the third entree. This was followed by a lamb, cous-cous and vegetable dish and chicken; all with very different tastes.

We also shared some pastries for dessert and a bottle of red wine. At the beginning we also were introduced to a refreshing green tea and mint drink with ice. Lovely and refreshing, I could have had two.

The seating in the restaurant is on cushions or table and chairs. I was a bit worried when we first walked in as I doubted I could get up with any degree of dignity if I was directed to sit on cushions but they seemed to leave them more for the younger customers or regulars who seemed very familiar with some of the seating spaces in the restaurant. 

Friday, 31^st December 2010 and the B’s go to CORDOBA and I am taking me time.

As you may recall yesterday I decided I had had enough of sore feet so went to Campers and bought a pair of slippers and a pair of shoes. I am giving the orthotics a miss for a short while. I hope this improves my situation as it is frustrating as anything to me, and I am sure to everyone else.

On another point I do not think I fully appreciated the term "layers" and definitely have too much gear for the cold, which is fine outdoors but absolutely unbearable indoors. I have noticed many of the women seem to wear summer style tops with several light cardigans or jumpers and then a thick outdoor coat. I will remember next time.

So this is my “me time”. I made a few phone calls and spoke with Doreen and Judy and also Ariel to check on the girls. She said they had settled in, were getting lots of hugs and pats and that Polly's foot had improved with no obvious problems. Penny had also settled after a half day of being a bit skittish.

Well to my day. I found the post office. It was two floors down in the parking garage of a department store. It was really hidden away and very hard to find. I could not find any street entry to the section. Nothing like we are used to in Australia. They were great despite the fact I did not speak Spanish and they did not speak English. We succeeded in getting the books mailed to Doreen. This probably took an hour so having achieved that I went in search of the Markets that B's had taken me too a few days ago. I could not find them.

So I decided to use my time profitably and went to the chemist to see about my Oroxine – I had forgotten to bring it with me when I packed. Fortunately the Chemist spoke English and was most helpful. He had a brother-in-law from Melbourne so we were nearly related. I did not need a doctor and he sold me a pack for about 3 Euros. Problem solved.

So I asked him about the markets. I had been looking in the wrong direction so he gave me some better idea and I set off again. Still could not find them but obviously I felt I was closer. All this time it was drizzling and the streets and squares were full with people everywhere. So I decided I needed a drink and to reassess what to do and where I was. I found what looked like a little bread shop with chocolate. Was directed downstairs to this much larger area and sat for a pastry and an orange juice. On leaving I decided to buy some pastries for tonight.

After these purchases I again asked for directions to the Markets. She did know where to go and this time I found it. I bought some lovely fruit for tonight. The pineapple is so sweet and juicy. I bought melon for the ham, dates and banana. The rest of the shopping was basics. I had some difficulty with the language but people were so helpful and I think I might be better at charades now. Then the woman sent me to a perfumery for dishwashing liquid. It got sorted in the end. I am now washing up in the sink without a plug. The B's are home so I have to go. I want to hear about CORDOBA.

Cordoba is in Southern Spain so the B’s caught a fast train there this morning. They were interested in seeing some of the historical architectural buildings from Roman times (Empire and Republic). In the 10^th and early 11^th Century, the city was considered the most populous city in the world, and became the intellectual centre of  Europe. In 711Cordoba was captured by a Muslim army and The Great Mosque of Cordoba dates back to this time. The other major site they discussed with the Roman Bridge. BJL brought back some lovely little bowls made in Cordoba.




Inside the Mosque

 

Because it is Christmas Eve most places are shut and despite our best efforts to find a suitable restaurant we decided to eat at home. We had too much food so only really got into the wine and nibbles. Mainly the Spanish ham, melon, nuts, cheese and bread. The pasta will be used tomorrow. BJK was keen to see the fireworks in the The Puerta Del Sol and managed to convince BJL to accompany him. There were no fireworks. Just a lot of people and that was it. I went to bed and slept beautifully