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| A view of the Old Bridge from upstairs at Uffizi |
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| The Old Bridge |
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| The Biancone of Ammannati - Neptune Fountain |
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| The Old Palace |
We look for a location for lunch and the one that BJL has in mind is closing until dinner and we attempt to book in for dinner when we return to the hotel but cannot get in until the next evening. So we wander and find a small bar. What a find. A lovely little back room with wine everywhere and a waiter who is very personable. We all choose something light and I have the usual coca cola light with the wine and water. But this is no usual coca cola light. The bottles have been covered with plastic and designed by top designers. I ask to keep the bottle and I can so I can show you later, but another customer comes and orders coca cola light and he gives me her bottle as well. What a darling. At this point the B's attempting to move me off coca cola light to coffee seem to have hit a rock. They decide it is better to try again latter. This great find is a small cafe linked to the GustaVino http://www.gustavino.it/
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| Fashion Designer Coca Cola Light |
We move off from here, inquire about tickets for tomorrow and try and find a restaurant that BJK remembers fondly. We fail but in the process go over the old bridge, window shop and get some gelato. On the way back we visit the Baptistery. How beautiful and again amazing. Stunning. And this is only our first afternoon.
We return to our hotel and then go too the roof for pre-dinner drinks. We have spumante and admire the view by evening. We are so close to the Duomo we can nearly touch it.
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| The old Palace up the road from the Hotel |
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| The Cathedral which is in Piazza Duomo from our roof |
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| The Bell Tower in the Duomo |
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| A look at the side of the Duomo from our roof |
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| This is the main dome of the Duomo |
After this little relax and photo shoot we set out for dinner to a restaurant called Trattoria Gabbriello within easy walking distance. Well it would be if not for fashion week. People spilling onto the streets just across from our hotel. And we look just like everyone else in their finery. Well maybe not. Heels, leather, hair, the beautiful people. We feel we represent Newcastle well and are a fine example of the Fitness Junction success story. Not sure if Dino would agree. Dinner is good although BJL was somewhat picky about the salad with corn and carrot. BJK, of course, has taken on the responsibility of now ensuring that these maligned vegetables join the humble pear in his promotion of their finer qualities. BJL may live to regret his words.
After dinner we fought our way through the fashion crowds and returned to our hotel. Tomorrow is our first full day in Florence.
Thursday 13th and a beautiful day. Up and out for breakfast but our proposed spot was not open so ended at another nearby cafe for a light breakfast. Nice but nothing to write home about. Then conference time. We discuss our possible options for the day. These can be fun, especially when we compare them to work meetings and send them up around the shared chairmanship, active minutes and noting items for the agenda. Despite the lack of any formal format they work well and are so good they can change whenever we want.
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| Statues of Hercules and David in the Piazza della Signoria |
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| The entrance to the area of the Uffizi |
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| another view of the Uffizi area |
Today we set our for the Uffizi. Another amazing experience. This museum is huge but the B's assure me what I see in Rome is even bigger. The ceilings were all hand painted with amazing pictures and there were 30+ rooms in a "u" shape with paintings, sculptures and beautiful stoneware. Able to see links between the items and history of Spain and items we are seeing here today. Just awesome.
There are a number of tour groups also in the Museum and they just move in and swamp you and everyone in their path. One can understand it but it is quite amazing to watch. Fortunately there is not a lot of tourists at this time so the tour groups are minimal. Some area are closed due to renovations and restorations. They appear to do everything possible to ensure you still experience that area despite this activity. They have videos to show what they have done, what they are moving and to keep you informed. There appears to be a lot of work going on at this time of year, probably because it is the down season. Some buildings being restored or repaired have covers over the facade outlining what is underneath so you do not feel that you are missing quite so much.
The Uffizi is just astounding. Huge, beautiful and overwhelming considering the work that has been collected and restored. The history is astounding. Makes me feel very humble about our (Australia's) youth. Half way through we visited the cafe for some sustenance. Simple snack although costly in comparison to most prices we have experienced in Italy. Then we returned to our viewing of the art work. I think we were there for about 4 or 5 hours. After leaving and before lunch we attempted to see the work by Damien Hirst called "for the Love of God". Too late so will follow that up tomorrow (Friday).
We then move off in search of lunch. BJK is fed up with me asking where we are going to go so he not too magnanimously gives me the choice. I select our bar where we had our first lunch and got the coca cola light bottles. All agree, but here is the thing. BJK thinks he manages to confuse me and misdirect me (I will point out this is not the first time), and leads me and BJL in the wrong direction. I follow quietly and as can be expected he finds a delightful little place that we have not been to before. It is not so little on this occasion and is packed. Standing room only but we go in and leave BJL to clarify how things work. This is standard practice too I have found. He does this extremely well. I would suggest he has had a lot of practice. That done, we order and BJL then organizes us about watching for seats, getting the coffee and getting the food. Just as all that happens 3 seats are available and we can sit and eat our selection against the wall. I will point out by seats I mean wood on the wall that will hold you to sit on. Nothing fancy but very convenient and serviceable. In this case lunch is a slice of pizza and coffee / water. Lovely. We forgo the pastries as neither one of us can choose from the large selection. We decide to return for breakfast on Friday.
On leaving I find a small chocolate shop - no way am I missing this opportunity. Apart from liquid chocolate I have been in withdrawal for a number of weeks now. I choose a few lovely little pieces for us all. The man keeps giving me more to try - I could have stayed longer but the B's are waiting outside. When I go outside to find they have been spending their time wisely selecting wine for our pre dinner drink tonight.
After lunch I return to the hotel and the B's are making their way to the old palace which is now a museum very near our hotel. We could have walked together but we went in different directions - no good reason why. Anyway, I find a lovely little shop on my way back called "my walit" - I bought a purse, come small handbag. Lovely and even better it was on special.
I then proceed to return to the hotel and here are the B's waiting out the front. I think they are waiting for me. Wrong. They are getting a taxi as the museum across the road is closed for some reason we do not understand. After clarifying that they have not booked a taxi it is agreed I will join them after returning to my room, using the toilet and leaving the shopping. Seems simple but the cleaner is in my room so I just drop the stuff and cross my legs. About to tell the B's that I will not join them when they stop a taxi and I hop in and go with them. We take the taxi to Fiesole which is a Etrusan-Roman town located at an altitude of 300m above sea level and about 9km out of Florence. The area consists mainly of hills and offers outstanding views of Florence and surrounds in addition to the rich art heritage.
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| The main street of Fiesole |
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| The main street looking back to where we arrived |
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| I come across the B's who have been wandering around the town |
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| A view across the road from the main square |
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| A quick glimpse back from the bus |
To add to this the room is like a very small closet so turning requires great skill and the tap at the wash basin has no handles. No, it is not one of those new ones where you move your hands under it and the water runs, it just doesn't have taps. There is a slight dribble from the tap so I manage with that.
The cafe itself is quite interesting. Clearly a fan of Elvis and Mohammad Ali. There are lots of photos on the walls of Hollywood stars like Marilyn, Frank, Dean and Sammy, local people and soccer stars. All seem to be from newspapers or magazines. A number of the local photos have nicknames like Fonzie and Little Richard.
The cafe is reasonably busy with locals and others providing a constant stream of customers. Another female came and appears to have used the toilet with no problem, was away a reasonable period, heard the toilet flush and the washing of hands. At another point a man came in asking for a takeaway coffee. Not available, only have china cups, no takeaway cups.
They also advertise gelato but there is no gelato. I settled for chocolate torte.
After finishing my cake and coke I go outside with the view of wandering around (and perhaps finding a toilet with a seat) and taking some photos. At this point I run into the B's just in time to catch the bus back. We check out one of the small shops but left empty handed. Got on the bus.
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| BJK's photo of the square |
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| Some shots from their walk around the town |
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| One of the many view down the valley |
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| Another small street in Fiesole |
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| A view through the olive groves back to Florence |
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| A light on a house - note the Koala |
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| another view |
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| returning to the square from one of the side streets |
There was another church BJK wanted to visit but there was some concern it might not be open. As we are going down the hill they notice the church, it is open and off they hop. The bus had stopped. I continue in the bus back to Florence and then taxi back to our hotel. They return some hours later after more exploring and getting tickets for Rome on Saturday.
Thursday 13th January, evening after a short rest we meet for drinks in the B's room, watch the news and then they go onto the roof after we shared some of the chocolate I had bought. I do some much overdue washing. I think I have failed to mention that the news of Australia is about the floods in Queensland. They are on every day and the situation gets worse.
We have a booking at the restaurant we could not get into the first day here. It is a little hole in the wall with four tables and operated by a couple and their son. He manages the front of house. The restaurant is called Vini Vecchi Sapori and we started with a mixed Affettal Tuscani which is a plate of three different meats. For our Primi course BJK had Ribollita alla Fiorentina which is a vegetable bread soup. BJL had Paccheri ai Fiori di zicca e Zafferand (zucchini flower pasta) and I had Ravioli Ricotta and Spinag Rose.
For mains I had Roast Beef al Fornoe Panate; BJL had Ossa Bucca el Vitella con Pijelli and BJK had Trippa Alla Fiorentina - that is tripe.
We had a litre of red wine and two bottles of water to aid the digestion. Then we managed sweets. I had cheese cake and pear whilst BJL had Tiramusu ai Lampon. Delightful. I have an idea we had another sweet but that was only the B's.
The restaurants we have been to really give an impression of service. Not overdone but always there to assist, recommend if you need help and generally make you feel very special. This was no exception.
Today is Friday 14th and I had a restless night. The room gets quiet hot but all was well once I got up. No early morning discussion this morning. Straight to yesterday's lunch spot for breakfast. Not crowded so we got a table and had some pastry and hot chocolate - coffee for the B's. Then we went to see the Damien Hirst "For the Love of God". I quote from the web page.
For the Love of God, the skull studded with diamonds realised by English Artist Damien Hirst, which has become legendary since it was displayed for the first time in 2007, will be on view at Palazzo Vecchio, in Florence, from 26th November 2010 to 1st May 2011.For the Love of God is a platinum life-size model of a human skull studded with 8,601 absolutely pure and almost flawless diamonds, for a total of 1,106,18 carats. A large pear-shaped pink diamond is located in the forehead, also known as the “star of the skull”, while the teeth were taken from a real 18th-century skull bought by Hirst in London.
The diamond skull has no precedents in the history of art. From a certain point of view, the work represents a traditional “memento mori”, an object which deals with the transitoriness of the human existence. As the Dutch art historian Rudi Fuchs says: “The skull is out of this world, almost celestial. It proclaims victory over decay. At the same time, it represents death as something infinitely more relentless. Compared to the tearful sadness of a vanitas scene, the diamond skull is pure glory”.
It continues to astounds me how many places there are with huge rooms, amazing art work, high ceilings and marble stairs. Well here we are again. On this occasion we were a bit early so had the chance to view the rest of the Palazzo Vecchio which is the historical seat of the government of the city of Florence. The palace visit begins with Great Hall of the Five Hundred and continues on the upper floor with the Apartment of the Elements, the Private Chamber of Eleanor, and the Priors and ending on the Mezzanine between the second and first floors.
After this the Damien Hirst exhibit was open to us. Well, talk about theatre. You enter a completely dark room with a guard and he has a small torch. The diamond encrusted skull is in a glass box and the lighting is such that it highlights only the skull and diamonds. You cannot see where you are standing or where you are about to step, nor can you see the faces of the other visitors. There was one other and the guard when B's and I were there. Amazing but macabre.
After this visit we went to the Mecini Palace. Beautiful again. Then the big event - David at the Academia. We walked there and my left knee was causing problems so I was very slow. The B's were very good. When we finally got there the effort was worth it. He is beautiful. BJL is also able to give some significant background which just makes the viewing so much better. He (Michelangelo) was commissioned to undertake this when he was 26 years old. Astounding. I also loved the unfinished works along the hall as you move down to get closer to David. These are pieces of stone (marble) that he had started to work into human figures but did not finish. What is amazing is that from a block of stone he can then create something recognisable and beautiful. Altogether extremely valuable experience.
Then I came back to the hotel. Before returning I stopped at a bar not far from the hotel and had some Pizza and a coca cola light and wine. Lovely. The B's have gone to see some other notable sights.
Just a few observations. I love the narrow streets and the walking areas although for me these have been problematic as I think the cold, cobbles, marble and uneven surfaces and a lot of walking has exacerbated my knee problems. That aside though, I really like how the streets are small and narrow. Parking seems to be on one side or the other and then it is a very tight fit for most vehicles to go just one way. Speeding is virtually impossible and the marriage of small cars, bikes and taxis seems to work well with pedestrians fitting in as well.
This evening is our last in Florence and BJK ha arranged a booking through the hotel for a restaurant in Academia. Before setting out for that we had considered cancelling and going to the restaurant associated with the hotel. The problem was we would not get in until 9:30pm. So we decided to have a drink there and take a taxi to the restaurant (check name with Brian). This we did only to find the restaurant did not open for evening meals and was about to close. The woman however provided us with the card of another restaurant not too far away in another street, adding that there were one or two others we might like as well. She recommended this one as the food is good and the prices reasonable. So off we set. Before we find the recommended restaurant the B's spot another possibility. Keeping that in mind we then find the other restaurant. The debate that followed was around the plastic flowers, the number of stickers on the door, how they are displayed and whether we should go back to the other restaurant. On these occasions I endeavor to defer to the B's greater experience but of cause that has it's problems when they have different opinions. The result was, as usual, BJL goes in to check whilst BJK remains outside after arguing solidly for this location based on no prejudgements because of the labels, the plastic flowers and the menu has wild boar.
As one would expect the cover was not representative of the establishment and as it has wine glasses, tablecloths, was clean and warm and already had several customers we decided to remain. The menu then was examined along with the wine menu and we were won over. Of course I think BJL will be wearing this one for some time but fortunately he also has one or two up on BJK so they both have plenty to talk about over future dinners. The restaurant was known as i'Toscano. http://www.itoscano.it/ We started with grilled bread and dips. This was very tasty. I particularly liked the chilli dip but the others were good too. Then we had our first course. We all chose the Bread Vegetable soup (Ribollita alla Fiorentina). For the main course I had Faggotini Pear and cheese with butter and thyme sauce. Best pick of the House. BJK had wild Boar and Pomegranate whilst BJL had pasta with Boar Sauce. For sweets I had Zucotto which was pretty good and BJL had Biscotti Vin Santo.
We taxied to the hotel and all slept well.
This morning (Saturday 15th January) we leave Florence for Rome. Firstly the B's visited the Palace across the road whilst I finished packing and had breakfast in the hotel. Reasonable but nothing to write home about.
We travelled by fast train with no problems. The trains are clean, fast and quite comfortable. No incidents on this occasion.
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